Saturday, January 28, 2012

A List of Numbers, part II

Here is a continuation from my first post back in September 2010 of my numeric experiences, reflections, and predictions to date.

164 - Number of days I have remaining until my COS conference in July (as of the date of this blog post)

8 - Number of jerry cans of water I use at site every week

0 - Number of cases of malaria

49% - My odds for a Patriots Super Bowl victory this Sunday night in Indianapolis

92 - Number of games I project the Red Sox to win this upcoming season

UGX560,000 - Number of Ugandan schillings my organization apparently owes Umeme (Uganda's electrical company) before we get our power reconnected

25% - My odds for the power being reconnected before I leave Uganda in September-October 2012

96 - Current number of students in my Senior 4 English class, the 1st term starting this week

3 - Number of computer cables I have replaced over the past year because of the daily power outages and dimming of power

As often as possible - Number of nights I fantasize over the home-cooked meals (tacos, hens, potroast and latkahs) I miss and long for back home

7 - Most number of passengers jammed into a car taxi - intended to seat 3-4 persons - i've experienced firsthand

$327 - Number of $'s I make per month as a Peace Corps volunteer in Uganda

3 - Number of dental crowns i've needed in Uganda

478,969,230,856 - Number of mosquitoes in Kachumbala, more than anywhere else in Uganda

108 - Approximate number of miles I walked in Egypt

Everyday - Number of times I have pondered my unknown future once I leave Uganda

24,000+ - Number of books expected to arrive in Uganda later this year for library establishment

1 - Number of times it has rained in Kachumbala over the past three weeks (it is currently in the dry season)

Every Sunday - Number of times I have been asked by Sunday mass-goers why I don't pray in the Catholic Church

4 - Number of times this week a Ugandan excused work not getting done/things being delayed by telling me "This is Africa"

6 - Number of hours of my computer's battery life, if not watching videos

4 - Number of hours of my computer's battery life, if watching videos

2 - Number of cats currently making the Mission their home

0 - Number of times, after asking a Ugandan how his/her day is going, the initial response is something other than "I am fine," "I am fair," "I am okay," or "I am somehow fine"

18 - Number of pounds I have lost in Uganda to date

9 - Average number of hours I sleep per night at site

5+ - Number of times I am likely to have edited this blog post

Thursday, January 12, 2012

Land of the Pharaohs

This past Christmas and New Year, I was fortunate enough to go on a second trip of a lifetime, to pharaonic and ancient Egypt. Despite the exaggerated news reports of ongoing protests and violence in Cairo, fellow PCV Gary Goodman and I still decided to venture out on our planned trip, excited to visit Egypt at such a monumental time in its history. Most other would-be vacationers to Egypt, however, decided to stay home.

Fortunate for us? There were no lines at any of the sites. Buses of tour groups were few and far between. Prices everywhere and for everything dropped considerably (this is Egypt's peak season for tourism). We were upgraded to a 2-bedroom, 13-story penthouse overlooking the Cairo Nile for free.

Unfortunate for business? The streets were eerily quiet, the hotels were often empty, and the sites were infrequently visited, all rid of tourists.

We also lucked out weather-wise. Contrary to Uganda, Egypt has hot-cold seasons, with scorching hot temperatures during the summer months and cooler temperatures during the winter months. Therefore, it made traveling with two large packs much more bearable, and a nice respite away from site.

Huge thanks to my parents for enabling me financially to go on a trip I will surely never forget!

TRIP HIGHLIGHT

Hiking off the beaten trail from the Valley of the Kings to the Temple of Hatshepsut alongside a 300m cliff face, providing us with an aerial view of the temple, the surrounding lunar-like landscape, and of the Nile River/East Bank of Luxor.

TRIP HIGHS

1) Waking up at 3:00AM for a 3 hour drive to see the Great Temple of Ramses II at Abu Simbel.
2) Even though the Tourist Police advised us not to ride the main cabin train (that the locals ride) from Aswan to Luxor, we chose to do so anyway, thus getting more of a real cultural experience and being in better position to interact with the local people.
3) Walking through the Great Hypostyle Hall - comprising 134 stone pillars and covering more than 5,000 sq meters - at the Temples of Karnak.
4) Admiring the tombs at the Valley of the Kings and at the Tombs of the Nobles.
5) Getting lost in the streets and marketplaces of Islamic Cairo.
6) Despite our initial mishap, climbing to the top of inside the Great Pyramid of Khufu.
7) Seeing the Royal Mummy Room - housing the remains of some of ancient Egypt's most illustrious pharaohs (Ramses II, Ramses III, Ramses V, Seti I, Tuthmosis IV) and queens - at the Egyptian Museum.
8) Seeing King Tutankhamun's golden death mask, two sarcophagi, and lion throne at the Egyptian Museum.
9) Egyptian hospitality: with the exception of a few verbal altercations, the Egyptians we encountered could not have been more hospitable and welcoming.

TRIP LOWS

1) The persistent hassling, touts, and scams right outside the sites and alongside the Nile Corniche. While the hassling undoubtedly results from people just trying to make a living for themselves and provide for their families, it makes the trip far less enjoyable when a felucca owner or a horse carriage driver follows you for 5 minutes, repeatedly offering you "the best price" for a ride, only to charge you double for it later.
2) Based solely on the areas we stayed in Aswan and Cairo, we were not able to find many sit-down (needed after a long day of walking) local eateries. Our options were limited to street food, fast food, or expensive restaurants to which most tourists flock.
3) Getting lost in a rough neighborhood of Aswan.
4) We had difficulty communicating with Egyptians who did not speak English, in asking for directions and negotiating prices. Learning only to speak basic greetings in Arabic can only take you so far.
5) Tacky souveniers sold to tourists, the majority of which are made and imported from China.
6) Being denied initial entry to climb inside the Great Pyramid of Khufu because we were issued the wrong admissions tickets.

TRIP OBSERVATIONS

1) The generational mix/contradiction of the traditional and the modern. For example, it was not uncommon to see young Egyptian girls wear traditional headdresses, with modern American-branded jeans, all while eating traditional Egyptian food sold at McDonalds.
2) The 5 calls to prayer - projected over a loudspeaker at sunrise, noon, mid-afternoon, sunset, and at night - are an incredibly personal and sacred daily custom.
3) Rightfully or not, crossing pedestrians do not have the right-of-way when navigating through Cairo's traffic/streets. Egyptians also like to honk their horns a lot, ALL THE TIME, not necessarily because it's needed but rather just to be heard.
4) Egyptians are very proud of their national heritage, culture, and of their capital city.
5) Egyptians are as crazed and passionate about football as Ugandans.
6) Egypt may be an Islamic country in North Africa, but it continues to rapidly develop and "Americanize" faster than just about any other African nation.
7) The general consensus amongst the Egyptians I talked to is that they supported the revolution to overthrow Mubarak and the Egyptian government, but currently they do not support the ongoing protests to oust the military leaders from power, in large part, because of how they've drastically affected Egypt's tourism, and simultaneously, their businesses.
8) Outside of the major mall, very few women appear to work in the service sector (waiting tables, driving taxis, selling goods, working in shops). This leads me to believe that Egypt is still very much a male-dominated society.
9) While the New Year is certainly celebrated in Egypt, it is not the all-out, drunken revelry that ensues every New Years Eve in the U.S.
10) Smoking "sheesha" (a tobacco water pipe) at an "ahwa" (a traditional coffeehouse) and playing backgammon/checkers are everyday favorite hobbies, and seemingly a great way to pass the time.
11) If you're ever planning a future trip to Egypt, be sure to bring lots of small change (coins, small notes) with you. People will inevitably demand "baksheesh" (tips) for anything from opening a door to taking you inside a closed tomb. For the majority of people, "baksheesh" is relied upon to supplement low wages. It's just the way of life in Egypt.
12) Because of the Islamic faith, alcohol in Egypt is not widely served outside of restaurants and bars.
13) Yes, you can really buy belly dancing costumes, Nubian viagra, Sudanese swords, and gold/silver in the marketplace.
14) The Pyramids are far grander, the Sphinx ("the Father of Terror") smaller, than I initially imagined. What I really didn't imagine was for both to be located right in the center of Giza, instead of isolated somewhere in the Egyptian desert.

Ugandan internet doesn't want to let me upload any pictures of the trip on the blog, but feel free to check out the album on facebook:

https://www.facebook.com/#!/profile.php?id=21502030.

Monday, December 12, 2011

Pre-Egypt Work @ Site

WORLD AIDS DAY

World Aids Day, observed this year on Thursday, December 1, is dedicated to the purpose of raising awareness on the AIDS pandemic caused by the spread of HIV (human immunodeficiency virus). To promote HIV/AIDS awareness in Kachumbala, I led a joint Family Planning-STD prevention session with my women's group. I had previously asked the women - and the two men representing their wives - to bring their respective partners to the session, in attempt to generate much-needed dialogue and discussion on the topic.

Nine men showed up to the session. It was the best thing that could have happened!

A family planning discussion soon turned into a heated debate over the legitimacy of the current gender roles in Uganda, a taboo subject matter seldom discussed. I was particularly glad to see several of the women, who are typically fairly reserved in the group, strongly argue for and defend their rights. As an outside observer, it was also interesting to listen to some of the back-and-forth dialogue - from what I could understand in Ateso - between the women and their husbands.

Not only is it my hope that World Aids Day further promoted awareness on HIV/AIDS prevention in Kachumbala, but also that the group's women and men can begin to openly discuss taboo issues such as the current gender roles/hierarchy in Uganda.

RAINCATCHER'S VISIT TO KACHUMBALA

This past weekend, Martha (Raincatcher's Project Coordinator of Africa) and Dennis visited the Mission to assess the potential suitability for rainwater harvesting. I gave them a brief tour of the village, introduced them to the headmasters at Kongunga Primary School and Kongunga Secondary School, and took lots of pictures of the Mission's buildings/roofs (the schools, the Catholic Church, the Parish House, the Dispensary). Although it has not yet been determined nor finalized, it is looking like both the primary and secondary school, the Catholic Church, and the Parish House will each recieve their own rainwater harvesting tank (fundraised and materials/labor supplied locally by Raincatcher), and the Dispensary will have their malfunctioning rainwater tank fully repaired. This would greatly benefit the community because it 1) Provides additional water sources from which community members can fetch their water, 2) Eases the daily strain on the lone borehole, a result of it being largely overused, and 3) Significantly reduces the amount of rainwater that is wasted everyday during the wet season.

On behalf of my village, the school headmasters, the Mission priests, and everybody else from Kachumbala, I look forward to my continued partnership with Raincatcher over the next year. Huge thanks to Raincatcher for the 10 additional Sawyer water filters and the Doritos (an awesome reminder of home)!

"LIBRARIES FOR LIFE - PEACE CORPS UGANDA" UPDATE

Within the past week, "More than Pages - Uganda," another library project in Uganda on the Books for Africa donation page, expressed interest in merging with "Libraries for Life - Peace Corps Uganda."

Assuming both projects combine their efforts, how does this affect everything moving forward?

For starters, the $ that "More than Pages - Uganda" fundraised will essentially be transferred over to "Libraries for Life - Peace Corps Uganda." Thus, we will have reached our target goal! Not only will this expedite the shipment and arrival of the books from the U.S. to Kampala (than initially expected), but it also enables me to now primarily focus on the pre-establishment tasks of the library, for instance training the soon-to-be-appointed librarian in library management; fundraising enough $ to buy heavy-duty steel windows, bookshelves, and chairs locally (the secondary school is contributing the tables); and preparing the designated library room for the books' arrival.

Within the next month, I plan to further develop the project design/action plan, and clarify a number of logistical issues with the headmaster and librarian:

* When (days/hours) will the library be open?
* What are the librarian's designated tasks?
* What rules will students be expected to adhere to inside the library?
* What will the physical design of the library look like? For example, where will the nonfiction books be shelved? How many bookshelves (length? width? height?) are able to fit alongside the room's back wall? How many tables will be available for student use inside the library? Where will the librarian's desk be located?
* How will all the library's books be cataloged?
* What will be the policy for students/teachers checking out and returning books? Will there be an associated cost?
* What will be the fine for lost or damaged books?
* How will all funds collected from library fines be safeguarded?
* How will all the books inside the library be safeguarded?
* What is the most effective way to open and introduce the library to the general student body? To teach students how to reference information, and use books for research?
* When/how often will teachers be allowed to utilize the library for their classes?
* What is the most effective way to go about starting an afterschool reading club?
* Who will monitor, both in the short-term and in the long-term, that the library is achieving its intended objectives?
* How will the library remain sustainable for the long-term?
* How will the community outside the school (if applicable) be involved in the project?

Thanks again for all your contributions and donations! This project wouldn't have been possible otherwise.

Wishing everybody a Happy Hanukah, Merry Christmas, and a Happy New Year!

Thursday, November 24, 2011

A Final Plea

With the holiday season rapidly approaching, what better way to make a meaningful impact in the lives of Ugandan children than to contribute to the "Libraries for Life - Peace Corps Uganda" project.

Partnering with Books for Africa (BfA), the project aims to build libraries in selected schools throughout Uganda. By supplying schools with textbooks, workbooks, novels, reference books, school supplies, and other resources, we (two other Peace Corps volunteers, children's author Jean Ready, and myself) hope to encourage a culture of reading that is fun yet educational. Books spark intellectual curiosity, encourage kids to think critically and creatively, and put a powerful face to words.

Unfortunately, the majority of schools in Uganda - including the schools participating in this project - have a very limited supply (if any) of books. Many of my students have never before opened a textbook or novel, or learned how to use a book's index or table of contents.

This is where we need your help. In order to have the donated books, supplied by BfA, shipped to Kampala, Uganda, we need to clear the books from port by first paying the shipping charges (approximately $14,000) and port/clearance charges (approximately $2,000), in addition to the costs needed to rent out space to sort through the books, and to deliver the books via truck to the beneficiary schools.

If you find yourself in position to donate to "Libraries for Life - Peace Corps Uganda", please visit Books for Africa's donation page (https://www.booksforafrica.org/donate/to-project.html), scroll down to the Uganda subheading, and click on the said project link.

Any sum that you are able to contribute is greatly appreciated, and will go a long way to building new libraries, with about 4,000 books in each, in selected schools around Uganda!

Friday, November 18, 2011

It Was Only A Matter of Time

Today, I was traveling from Mbale to Kampala for my upcoming midservice medical checkup. Proud of myself for waking up at 5:00AM, I managed to catch the 7:30AM Elgon Flyer bus. I secured a seat in the back, hoping to slyly hide the vacant seat directly next to me.

For those who are unfamiliar with Ugandan transportation, it is rare, almost unheard of, to secure a seat on a bus, car taxi, or matatu without at least one person sitting next to/on top of you. For example, it is the norm to be jammed five people on a seat intended to sit two people. Because bus companies understandably want to maximize their profit on any given journey by filling up every available seat, customer satisfaction/comfort is essentially disregarded. No sweat, right?

Waiting quietly in the back for the bus to leave for Kampala, I thought I had outsmarted the bus conducter. One minute before departure, I was sadly mistaken. "You sit next to the muzunugu," I hear from the conducter, directed at a woman with a baby (not more than a few months old) in-hand. I immediately curse my luck. Sitting next to a presumably crying baby is not how I want to spend the next four hours of my day.

To my surprise, the baby was remarkably well-behaved and cryless, so much that I managed to fall asleep. All was going fine until, two hours later after passing Jinja town, I am suddenly awoken to "Bllaahhhhh." Initially confused by the sound, I wake up to my shirt and pants covered in vomit. It takes me 2-3 seconds to actually realize what just happened. With the mother profusely apologizing "I am sorry" and hundreds of eyes staring at me, wondering from where the nauseating smell and sound originated, I embarrassingly begin to clean/wash my shirt with my water. The conducter then comes over to ask if I am doing okay. Outwardly, I say, "I am fine." Inwardly, I am passing much of the blame on him.

The irony of it all? The mother and her baby proceed to get off the bus in Lugazi town (not in Kampala), not even 20 minutes after my shower of baby vomit. A prime example of bad timing at its finest.

The morals of the story? In Uganda, to expect the unexpected. To embrace everything, even the gross things, as they come because they may never come again stateside. And to perhaps sleep in and catch the 8:30AM Elgon Flyer bus to Kampala instead.

It was bound to happen. It was only a matter of time.

Monday, November 14, 2011

The World Map Project at Kongunga Primary School











Thanks to the students and teachers of Kongunga Primary School for their hard work and dedication on this project. Next up: the World Map Project at Kongunga Secondary School!

Thursday, November 10, 2011

Midservice

My apologies for my several week absence from updating the blog.

Two weeks ago was my midservice conference in Masaka, with all 44 volunteers from my training group. It was great to reconnect with my fellow PCV's, some of whom I haven't seen since IST back in January. A training group's midservice conference signifies the halfway point in their two years of service. The purpose of the conference is to share successes, challenges, and frustrations; pool resources; and to develop a new workplan and monthly project goals.

Midservice is also the time to really do soul-searching and begin to question what is next for me? What the heck do I want to do after service? What options are available? Do I want to extend my service in-country or in another country? Do I want to consider a Peace Corps Response assignment that has more defined project objectives, and is more tailored to one's skills, interests, and experiences? Do I return stateside, and try my luck in the uninspiring job market? I've already decided not to extend in Uganda because my work situation is anything but ideal; also, I want to see something new. More likely than not, I will return stateside following post-COS travel unless I find a Peace Corps Response assignment that is an ideal fit.

The most reflective part of the conference for me was when we were all frankly asked Why are you still here? What is keeping you from leaving early and going back to the U.S.? My answer is a combination of:
- The full support I have recieved from family and friends back home
- The great relationships I have formed with people in my village
- Several of my projects that are now on the upswing
- My stubborness/self-pride and refusal to quit anything I start
- My satisfaction at being able to communicate in the local dialect
- My loving, biting, tick-carrying dog
- The realization that Uganda really has become a second home for me

We also had a Halloween party (I was too lazy to make a costume) and trivia night, as well as superlatives which were given out to everybody. My superlative, predictably, was "Most likely to get mango flies, nairobi eye, and have his computer stolen all in the same week." Yes, these all did happen to me. No, these all didn't happen within a week.

Despite some nasty reactions (nausea, diahrrea, fever) we all had to the flu shots Peace Corps was mandated to give us (three days of diahrrea, no sweat), midservice was incredibly fulfilling, and motivated me to continue on in my second year of service.